Since getting on a Russian history kick I’ve been wanting to visit the Stalin museum in nearby Gori. Stalin (born Iosif Vissarionovich Dzhugashvili) was Georgian and like any proud hometown, Gori has a nice museum and, until recently, a statue in the town square to honor their first son.
Since starting to learn about Stalin, I’ve been asking Georgians for their opinion on him. Our host grandfather loves to toast to Stalin – we’ve heard his speech a few times already. However, another (younger) friend tells us that the reverence older Georgians have for Stalin is a habit from years of living in fear. If you weren’t for Stalin, you were against him. The more I learn about him and his philosophies, the more this makes sense.
For some reason we – Sean, our friend Kelley and me – chose the coldest day this winter to make the trip. It was about 10 degrees that morning, but as I tell everyone here, “Hey, I’m from Iowa. I know cold!” And although it was a chilly two-hour ride to Gori, surprisingly, the coldest part of the entire day – and, I think, the coldest I’ve ever been in this country – was inside the museum.

The museum was in this really cool old building. However, they didn't even attempt to heat it and the marble floors were like ice. Seriously, I think it was below zero in there!
As you might guess, we were the only visitors and we believe they had to fetch the English-speaking guide from her home to give us the tour. Still, it was really interesting and I’m glad we went.
I will say that the museum’s depiction of Stalin was overwhelmingly positive. The exhibits were in Georgian and Russian, so we can’t be sure, but our guide definitely highlighted the good. For example, she made no mention of the thousands of Georgians that were shot during his rule, as blatantly emphasized in the last museum we visited an hour down the road. But we expected this. Who wants to admit their hometown boy was actually responsible for thousands upon thousands of deaths, not to mention gulags and forced collectivization?

Churchill, Truman and Stalin at the Potsdam Conference in 1945. I wonder what these guys actually thought of Stalin?
Probably most exciting for me was seeing Stalin’s train. In the museum yard, they had the two cars he used as his living quarters and meeting space while on the road. He took this to the Yalta and Potsdam Conferences, among others.
You can imagine my excitement when the guide mentioned (in passing, as if it wasn’t the coolest thing about the entire tour!) that the train was also used by the Romanovs…Nicholas, Alexandra, the whole family! My friend Kelley and I squealed for a good two minutes over this.

Yes, this is me being all nerdy and pretending to write important letters - like Stalin, Nicholas AND Alexandra probably all did.

After touring the train, we snapped this photo and found ourselves a warm cafe and some khatchapuri. Desperately needed at this point...did I mention it was cold?
I should also mention that right after we came to Georgia, many people contacted me about this story. In June of 2010, the government secretly took down the Stalin statue in the city center in the wee hours of the morning, part of its on-going battle to remove Soviet imagery from Georgia following the 2008 war. Rumor had it that the statue would be taken to the museum, but our guide said it is still missing…although they’re still hopeful.

















































